Bbss setups

These rotors are becoming difficult to find in junk yards, but a new part is being manufactured by US Brake part number The lower ball joint hole has to be reamed to fit this ball joint taper.

One important design consideration when using the Pinto spindle is that it is 1. This will change the roll center height and rate of camber change during bump travel. Fortunately there are some Carrera dealers that still have these parts in inventory. When purchasing the strut cartridge which is the shock absorber element , use part number a6 instead of the a6 recommended in the book. The was recommended to us by the Carrera tech staff, but after using it on our project car, the driver felt that it was too stiff.

After installing the cartridge, the driver said the car felt more comfortable, it stuck better at corner entry and mid corner, and he backed that up with faster lap times. For the rear shocks, you can use the street stock-style rear shocks from PRO Shocks. The part number is SS Other alternatives for the front strut and cartridge: Racer Walsh Foster Dr. Jacksonville, FL - - - — www.

The part number is HALH KYB has a replacement strut and cartridge for the Mustang. The part number More information at www.

Tokico also makes a replacement strut and cartridge. The part number is HB It is a non-adjustable gas shock. Their website is www. Monotube gas shocks have an internal pressure to prevent the shock fluid from foaming.

But the gas pressure also has an influence on the extension of the shock and the rate of the shock. Your shock absorbers are a part of the total suspension package of the race car, and so the car should be scaled with the shocks in place.

The car should be scaled with everything on the car exactly as it will be when the car first hits the track. The total amount of gas pressure in a shock also has an influence on total spring rate at that corner of the car. More gas pressure produces more spring rate. With the stiffer spring installed on the right rear, the car will tend to be looser at corner exit.

The greater the banking angle of the track, the more the stiffer right rear spring will loosen the car. In general, most paved track baseline setups start with a left rear spring that is 12 to 15 percent stiffer than the right rear. A twisting force can be added to the sway bar as the car sets in its static non-moving condition.

This is done either by changing the length of a threaded link which attaches the bar to the lower control arm, or by raising or lowering a load bolt which attaches the sway bar to the chassis. Adding preload pre-set twisting force on the bar adds cross weight to the chassis. The amount used is part of a baseline setup, and is learned with on-track experience and driver preference.

The preload is set when the car is on the scales. Then write this number down in your setup notebook so you can quickly add it at the race track if needed. Then the bar can be restored to the neutral condition. Monotube shocks offer a revalvable design, which means that the racer can disassemble the shock and change the compression and rebound damping control values.

You can also change the pistons to make the shock linear or digressive. If you are going to revalve your own shocks, you need a shock dyno to test the shock to make sure the changes you made are what you desire. Monotube shocks are much more efficient in dissipating heat. Less heat in the shock oil means more control and less fade. Both types of shocks, when used in one given situation, will generate the same amount of heat. But the twin tube shock will generate the heat in the inner working tube, and this inner tube is surrounded by hot oil in the outer tube.

That makes it more difficult for heat to radiate out of the shock body. A monotube has only the outer tube so it is easy for heat to radiate out of the tube wall. Twin tube shocks are almost always less expensive than monotube shocks. Sometimes there is a considerable difference in cost. Let your budget be your guide.

For more information on shock absorbers and chassis tuning with shocks, see: S Sprint Car Chassis Technology. They have been in business for many years. Their products have been very successful on midgets, sprint cars and Silver Crown cars. They started out as a rebuilder of Carerra shocks, revalving the Carrera shocks to meet specific applications.

When QA1 purchased Carrera, they began building all of their own shock components and complete shocks. They build both twin tube and monotube shocks, and have shocks available for all forms of racing — dirt and asphalt sprint cars, dirt and asphalt midgets, pavement late models, dirt late models, mini sprints, and even quarter midgets.

ARS shocks are built very specific to their application on a particular race car, and their part numbering system reflects this. This can make decoding their part numbers a bit difficult at times.

Below is a guide to the ARS part numbering system. The use of a base valve allows use of low internal pressure. Available with E, A, or B adjustment features for rebound see below for definitions , and adjustable for compression at the remote reservoir. ARC — cockpit rebound adjustable; cable is parallel to shock mounting bolt; adjusts rebound and compression at the same time in proportional ratios.

BRC — Cockpit rebound adjustable; cable is 90 degrees to shock mounting bolt; adjusts rebound and compression at the same time in proportional ratios.

Uses an adjuster on the shock eye for rebound and a second adjuster for compression on the remote canister. RT — rough track valving. A shock is valved to be one valving code at low speed shaft velocity and one step stiffer valving code at higher speed shaft velocity. SPL — Uses a 1-inch shorter shaft than the body is designed for, which allows for more gas expansion inside the shock.

For example, a 7-inch shock body using a 6-inch shaft. You can find more information on shock absorbers and tuning a chassis with shock absorbers in one of these books: S Paved Track Stock Car Technology.

Traction can be increased by using softer spring rates at all corners of the race car. But a byproduct of using softer springs is increased body roll. Body roll has to be limited at some point or else chassis attachment linkages will be at unacceptable angles, which will significantly reduce handling performance.

So a much stiffer-than-normal front anti-roll bar sway bar is fitted to the chassis to control excess chassis roll. That is the basic thinking behind the newest BBSS setups, but it takes many more elements in the chassis to make this setup work For example, the right rear spring rate is crucial to balance the front sway bar rate. And the valving stiffness of the shocks, and the rebound and compression ratio of each shock, is critical to making this setup work.

And there are many other things in the chassis that have to be adjusted or changed to make the BBSS setup work properly. Sorry, you will just have to do your homework. The computer programs do a great job of simulating front end geometry or rear end geometry, or race car track performance dynamics, or a starting setup for your car on a specified track.

But to get valid data that is usable for your particular race car, you have to enter in all of the required measurements for your particular car. Even if you have a manufactured chassis, your car is still different than any other car. There is no shortcut. You have to enter all of the measurements for your car in order to get the correct results. Like anything in racing, it takes time and effort to get positive results. And speaking of taking measurements, it is extremely important to take the time to take accurate measurements.

It takes time and care to be accurate. But the degree of accuracy in measurement equals the degree of accuracy of the computer program output. Remember, there is no shortcut if you want accurate and usable results. Dwarf I. Carroll Smith Karting Stock Cars. Click a tip's title to see its details. According to your S Sprint Car Chassis Technology book, there are multiple ways to adjust a chassis to make it looser or tighten it up. So how does a racer decide which adjustment to use on his car?

Look at these chassis adjustments: Reducing air pressure in the right rear will create a larger tire footprint for more surface grip.

It will also make the tire sidewall more flexible which allows the tire to roll under during cornering, moving the footprint in closer toward the car which will tighten it up. Space the wheel in toward the car. This places additional weight loading on the tire and tightens the chassis. Use a one step softer shock absorber valving at the right rear. This allows weight to transfer quicker to this corner. Take chassis tilt out of the rear. This places more static weight on the right rear corner.

This affects the car the most through the first half of cornering. Move the wing back to load more down force at the rear tires. What effect does the rear pinion angle of the driveshaft have on forward drive traction on my stock car? We have your book on paved track technology and use it just about daily. We have a straight rail paved track car and 2 All Pro cars.

These questions mainly concern the straight rail: 1 Do we need to scale the car with the spring rubbers in if we plan on using them?

When running it, what should we use for a spring rates baseline? We have never run with a rear sway bar before. We have run this car twice so far with great results but did not have the sway bar in.

They give you a stiffer spring rate, so that will change things if you change any corner weight or cross weight. In other words, the total rear spring rate is stiffer when the car is cornering because the rear sway bar comes into play. If the car is handling well without the bar hooked up, the car will be looser when you hook up the bar. To get back to your "good handling baseline," you would have to use softer rear springs.

How much softer? Compute what the wheel rate of the sway bar is, then subtract one half of that from the wheel rate of the left rear spring and half from the right rear spring.

I am building a pavement late model stock car, and am planning to use a 3-point rear suspension. Because of how I want to place some components on the left side, I would like to move the left lower link inward, toward the center section of the axle housing. I would leave the right lower link in the traditional position near the hub on the end of the axle.

What will happen when you mount the links assymetrically like this? I recently purchased your I. Modified Racing Technology book. In the Rear Suspension chapter, you talk about using a 3-link rear suspension on dirt, with the upper link having an ideal length of 41 inches and mounted downhill at a degree angle. My modified uses a inch long rubber biscuit upper link attached to a roll cage cross bar behind the cockpit, and with no axle damper shock.

What is the difference between the ideal setup you describe and what I have mounted in my car? Is there an advantage to the rear suspension geometry with the longer pull bar? What the longer, lower-mounted upper link is designed to do is attach the torque link at the actual instant center of the rear suspension linkages when the lower links are 20 inches long and are mounted at a 5-degree uphill angle.

Mounting the link here places it lower than the CGH of the car, which makes it more effective. This arrangement simulates the use of a inch long torque arm, which increases the torque cushioning effect on the tires. The forces are applied to the tires more gradually and over a longer period of time, enhancing acceleration traction down the straightaway. Also, I would encourage you to use an axle damper shock. It helps to control rear end looseness and rear wheel hop under braking at corner entry.

When the track gets dry slick which is almost always the case for the feature , my car pushes under acceleration off the corners. The front tires don't have enough grip, and coming off turns 2 and 4 the car is pointed at the outside wall. The car is OK to slightly loose at corner entry. How should I adjust the chassis? Here are the adjustments you can make, in the order of importance, with an explanation of how they effect the handling: Note: All of these chassis adjustments except 5 would apply to any dirt track stock car, such as a sportsman, late model or IMCA modified, experiencing the same handling problem.

Increase stagger. Stagger loosens up the chassis through all three phases of cornering, but it has its greatest effect under acceleration. Many racers take out too much stagger when the track gets dry slick. Having more weight load on the left rear makes the car tend to drive straight ahead under acceleration. Use a softer left rear spring or torsion bar rate. Under acceleration, a stiffer left rear spring functions just like having more cross weight. It makes the left rear more dominant and drives the car straight ahead.

Don't use easy-up shocks in the front. An easy-up shock allows weight to transfer very quickly from front to rear under acceleration due to softer rebound valving.

With easy-up shocks, the rear tires are more heavily loaded which produces more forward traction. At the same time, unloading weight from the front tires reduces grip on them. Lower the front Panhard bar. This lowers the front roll center, which loads the right front tire harder during cornering.

I have been experimenting with split valve shocks to help fine tune the chassis. If I use shocks with more rebound control on the left side, will that loosen up or tighten the chassis at corner entry? When scaling a race car, should you do it with or without the driver's weight in the car? The car weighs 2, pounds race-ready without ballast, the minimum weight is 2, pounds with driver, and the driver weighs pounds.

What should I use for left and rear weight percentages, and where should I mount the ballast? A lot of paved track late models seem to be using a rear anti-roll bar these days. What is the advantage of using a rear bar, and what spring rate range should be used?

If you use a rear bar, do the rear spring rates need to be changed? Source for rear anti-roll bars: Schroeder Enterprises S. Flower St. Burbank, CA This extra duty overloads the tire and causes it to give up. It only needs to keep the rear of the car on the track, and it carries a heavier load to help it. Since the setup is unbalanced, with the front tires more equally loaded side to side than the rear tires, the front develops more grip.

So we see the need to increase the crossweight to tighten up the car. We will offer general directions, so don't run out and put this in your car. Every car is a little different, and a slow approach to the transition will keep you from getting into trouble. The sway bar sizes range from 1. For most Late Model cars, 1. Some teams think the 1. Front spring rates vary, from a pair of pound springs up to and pound springs.

Again, springs in the pound range are too stiff. The RR spring is usually increased over conventional rates by to pounds. This means you would run a minimum of pounds all the way up to and beyond pounds.

The crossweight must be increased along with these changes. Typical increases are from 2 to 4 percent of total weight. With most chassis designs, we are limited to going down to inches off the ground. The RR shock will travel about half as much with the BBSS stiff spring in the car, so adjust your trailing arm angle to avoid rear steer to the right in the turns.

With a normal travel of 3. The compression settings generally go up at the RF, while those at the LF go down. The RR might need more rebound to control that stiff spring. Adjustable shocks are very helpful in the tuning stages of the conversion to BBSS. The amount of increase and decrease in rebound and compression varies with the track size. Long, smooth, and flatter tracks can use much more rebound control than shorter tracks that may be rough.

Rough tracks also have a negative effect on the RR when a very stiff spring is used. The car tends to bounce at that corner instead of negotiating the bumps smoothly.

It is necessary to reduce the RR spring rate and change the crossweight to bring the car back to neutral handling. Most of the high-end racing shock companies make shocks that are adjustable. AFCO has released a new canister shock that can be used without the can, and Pro-formance Shocks is very active with the asphalt racers who are using their highly adjustable shocks. Similar designs are available from QA1, hlins, Penske, and Bilstein.

We need to make changes in other areas to accommodate the BBSS setups. The front geometry must be redesigned in order to properly gain the advantages of the BBSS setups. The cross weight adjustments should work on all dirt cars except the Sprint Cars.

If you want to know how to adjust iRacing Sprint Car cross weight, go here. The images used are taken from the iRacing Super Late Model setup screen.

As far as I know, all of the iRacing asphalt cars are adjusted the same way. Some of the names, most notably in the asphalt Street Stock springs, are different, but the process is the same. Sometimes the handling of the car might not be to your liking. Sometimes weather differences will require changes to either tighten or loosen the setup. For warmer track temperatures, you are going to need to tighten the car.

When the track is cooler, you may want to loosen the car some. Always try to start with the track bars first. Adjust the cross weight for more extreme conditions or different circumstances. Try one or two click on each spring perch shown above to raise the cross weight. Make small adjustments, about one half of one percent.